Delboy's Garage, USD Fork Seal Replacement


A detailed tutorial for changing fork seals in Upside Down Forks
Help support what we do here at the Garage by becoming a Patron.

Our channel is supported and part funded by kind and generous Patrons who help keep the bills paid and keep the videos coming. If you’ve been helped, educated or just entertained by our videos then you can join the gang by clicking the link above, and from just $1 a month, you’ll help us keep the videos coming.

Or If you just want to say thanks for this video alone, you can drop a dollar in our “Tip Cup’ by using Paypal to The money will go to make more videos and keep this channel in your hands and not the advertisers.

Buy ‘Delboy’s Garage’ Merchandise:-

Follow us on Facebook :-

Check us out on Twitter :-

..and if you haven’t already, then please subscribe :-

Become a Patron and join the team :-



  1. Awesome information. I can't tell you how much help your videos have been. Keep up the good work and keep it rubber side down.

  2. Hi i have Kawasaki ninja zx10r 2009 how does the fork look inside? is it different on different model, you can some picture how it looks

  3. Hmm fork seals dont look as intimidating as I thought they would be. That seal pusher looks like a good investment if you ever do your seals more than once.

  4. Extremely useful video. It gave me the confidence to change the seals on my Ducati for the first time. Sanford, Florida wanted $750 to change the seals, and I had already removed the forks. Wow. Yea, I was also shocked.

  5. Hi great video, just a quick question i didn't see you use a spring compressor is it necessary? Keep the good content coming.


  6. GOOD FOOTAGE, but when putting your new oil in. You left your cloth on the bottom. So you oil level will be wrong, as the outer cannot go to the bottom. Great vids though keep up the good work thanks

  7. Hi del, thanks again for another great vid, just some advise when changing the oil on usd forks please. Befor removing the top cap should I leave both the pre load adjuster and rebound screw were they are? Some other vids I've seen people seem to be winding the pre load out and the rebound screw in before they remove the cap? I don't know why. Thanks john.

  8. How would you age the castings off the bottom to replace the tubes, I have been told they have to be pressed onto the new tubes and costs a lot for an intruder vz800

  9. Hello Del,
    I few years ago I managed to change oil and fork seals on my SV 650S standard forks thanks to your video.
    Now I´ve got a newer bike, Street Triple 675R 2014 with USD forks and it is time to change fork oil in them.
    Due to it is a newer and more expensive bike I´m more scared obviously. The seals are fine and they aren´t leaking.
    If I just open the upper fork nut and let the fork upside down over night, is there a chance to get most of the oil out,
    or do I have to take the nut apart from spring and pump it like you showed in this video? And other question is, if you have any tip,
    how to loosen and tighten the upper fork nut without damaging it or scuffing it by the wrench nut or from screw-wrench. I hate, when are these
    nuts beaten up from tools… Bike has 25 000 miles and the nuts look, like they haven´t been opened so far, so i would like to keep them looking brand new.
    Thank you Del for your help and great video!

  10. To only replace fluid, we don't even need to remove the fork: just twist, siphon out the old fluid, and add fresh fork oil.

  11. Hello Moonfleet41, when sanding a hydraulik tube, THEN 90° to its motion. direction you can see on the manufacturing marks. use your paper, oil an your thumb with max. tooth brushing pressure.
    (reason that hydraulic guys say is that the microscopic 90° grooves get polished by movement, but those in line will cut the seal and stay, clamp it (carpentertools) horizontally looking over the table, use cotton sand stripes and gently work your way over the areas) thx nice video.

  12. While I appreciate keeping the new seal off the rough part of the stanchion, The fork needs to be fully compressed when taking the fluid level measurement, otherwise you may as well be taking a measurement at any random point of the stroke.
    Your method of getting the seals over the sharp edges at the top is good, but it could result in nicking the fork seals as you are now running over a sharp edge of plastic length ways. I usually just use the thick plastic packet the seals came in.
    Interesting method of cleaning the rough part of the stanchion, I have used tinfoil with great success. but I wont be able to say which is less abrasive
    Nice illustration on how to jack the bike up, its a great method… I've always struggled with my sport bikes in that department.

    Great video, I was worried about USD forks myself but you've made it look like a piece of cake.
    The time will come that I need a fluid replacement on my street trip and now I'll be able to tackle the project alone.

  13. Great video! I’m about to tear into my first set of USD forks and your video has given me the confidence to jump in! Thank you!

  14. You made replacing fork seals look fun! I can’t wait until mine start leaking. Thank you for taking the time for making such a helpful and straight-forward video.

  15. Just a thought, what about the distance adjustment caused by the rag at the bottom, stopping the fork leg travelling to the end of travel?

  16. Got a question 4 U, I've a Suzuki TL1000R that I had to replace the fork seals on recently. My question is the rebound adjuster & installing the cap. I saw a video by Dave Moss when he went to reasssemble a fork he was working on he screwed the cap down onto the threads of the damping rod until it bottomed out so that the rebound screw adjuster wouldn't turn then he backed it off to midway in the adjustment range then tightened down the damper rod nut up to the base of the cap. When he tighten down the cap he then checked the rebound adjustments range counting the clicks it was a range of 50-clicks then the video cuts back to before he tore the fork apart and the range of the rebound agjustment was only 44-clicks. On your video you didn't do it that way I believe you just backed off the rebound and pre-load adjusters to zero, and when rebuilding and before installing the cap you didn't have to "center out" the range. I;ve completely rebuilt and want to be sure that when I go to turn in the rebound that it's bot going to bend my rod or bottom out and break something?


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here